SUMMARY:

The punch is a tiny imprint often unobtrusive on a jewel or gold object. It plays an essential role in identifying and valuing your gold jewellery. Indeed, it allows to attest the purity and origin of gold and thus guarantees the authenticity of the jewel. 

Finally, the punches are not mere marks, they are also witnesses of history, legal guarantees and the integrity of precious metals.  

 

1) The history of punches 

 

Over the centuries, the punches have known different roles, but how important to guarantee the quality of the metal, and the identification of craftsmen. The hallmark also reflects a centuries-old tradition of regulating precious metals. 

 

      A medieval origin 

The first traces of punching date back to the Middle Ages. In France, it was under the reign of Saint Louis, in the 13th century, that the first official controls on precious metals appeared.  

At the same time, in 1260, an order requires that gold and silver objects be examined by sworn guards to protect consumers from fraud. These inspectors applied a mark, a title stamp, which attested to the precious metal content. 

 

      The French system, a rigorous model 

The system has evolved over time. Thus, under the reign of François I, a more structured regulation was established, and it was finally under Napoleon I that the basis of the modern system was created.  

France has thus acquired one of the most precise and strict systems in the world. Indeed, from 1797 onwards, the law imposed two types of punches: 

  • The master’s punch, which identifies the goldsmith or manufacturer. 
  • The guarantee stamp, affixed by the authorities, which certifies the legal title of the gold (18, 14 or 9 carats for example). 

Even today, symbols such as the eagle’s head (for 18-carat gold) or the scallop shell (for small works) allow an immediate reading of the quality of the jewel. 

 

      International standardization 

In modern times, although each country has developed its own hallmarks, international conventions have emerged, such as the 1972 Vienna Convention. 

The purpose of the latter was to harmonise the punchings between Member States. Thus, a jewel stamped according to this standard can be marketed in several countries without additional control. 

2) Presentation of the different types of punches 

 

For the professional as well as the collector, knowing how to read a punch is deciphering the authenticity, origin and sometimes the time of a jewel. This is a key skill in the world of gold. 

Several types of punches exist to clearly identify gold: 

- THE TITLE OR GUARANTEE POINT: 

  • Eagle head: 18 carats 
  • The scallop shell: 14 carats 
  • The clover: 9 carats 

- POINCON DE MAITRE (manufacturer): This one is customized and it indicates the manufacturer or the goldsmith responsible for the jewel. It is often represented by initials or a unique symbol in a diamond. 

- IMPORT OR EXPORT POINCON: It is used for foreign jewelry, often represented by an owl head or other specific symbol. 

3) How do you interpret the punches? 

 

Several techniques make it possible to make a correct first interpretation of the punches: 

- Use of a high magnification loupe or gemological microscope 

- Identify the type of symbol clearly 

- Check the shape of the punch: oval, diamond or square, which can indicate the nature of the punch (warranty, master, import). 

The best solution, however, is to call on a professional recognized as GODOT & FILS for precise and reliable identification. 

 

4) How to keep a gold jewel so that its punch remains visible? 

 

As previously mentioned, a erased punch is a part of the value of a jewel that disappears or diminishes. That’s why, by adopting simple but rigorous gestures, it is quite possible to keep a gold jewel in its integrity and preserve this essential signature of its authenticity. 

This punch is usually tiny and discreetly placed. It can be found, for example, inside a ring, on a clasp or on the back of a pendant. 

Being essential for a good authentication of the gold contained in the jewel, it must be able to preserve the visibility of this punch. 

 

      Avoid excessive friction 

Being very finely engraved, the punch can become altered over time, especially if the jewel is subjected to regular rubbing. This applies in particular to the rings, often in contact with other surfaces. To preserve it, it is therefore recommended: 

Remove the rings during manual activities (gardening, DIY, sports). 

Do not wear several rings side by side, at the risk of metals wearing each other out. 

 

      Clean gently 

If, as gold expert we do not recommend to touch or handle too much gold with products, it is nevertheless essential to carefully clean gold jewelry.  

Of course, any abrasive, corrosive (chlorine, chemicals) or hard brushes are to be avoided, as they can erase a shallow punch. It is therefore better to focus on: 

  • Warm water with a little mild soap. 
  • A soft toothbrush. 
  • A microfiber cloth for drying. 

Likewise, it is advisable to avoid ultrasonic baths without prior advice from a professional. Indeed, some vibrations could weaken old or poorly marked punches.

 

      Store properly 

Important point of a good conservation of a gold jewel, the question of storage is important to limit the risk of scratches or shocks. Ideally, each piece of jewellery should be stored in its own box lined with soft fabric.  

Avoid leaving several pieces of jewellery together in a box, as they may damage each other and the punch may fade or become illegible. 

 

      Avoid uncontrolled repairs 

In the case where repairs or modifications (ring enlargement, welding) are necessary on your gold jewel, you must always call on an experienced professional, who will be able to maintain or reposition the punch in compliance with the standards.  

5) The elements to know when selling a gold jewel and the study of its punch 

 

Whether it is for the sale of a contemporary piece or an antique jewel, a multitude of elements must be taken into account to determine its true value. 

 

      The identification of the punch 

The punch is the first thing an expert will look at. In France, there are two main types: 

The title mark, which indicates the percentage of pure gold contained in the alloy (e.g. 750 for 18 carats, 585 for 14 carats). 

The master’s punch, which identifies the craftsman or workshop that made the jewel. 

It should be noted, however, that a jewel without a punch may be made of gold, but its value will be more difficult to prove without additional testing. 

 

      The weight and purity of gold 

Weight is a determining factor, and the professional will generally use a precision scale to determine the exact weight in grams. 

But the weight is not everything, it must be related to the titration indicated by the punch.  

To understand, an 18 carat gold jewel will be more valued than a 9 carat gold jewel of equal weight. The latter will contain gold, but usually mixed with alloys of other metals.  

 

      The study of the general condition of the jewel 

A jewel in good condition or signed by a big house (Chaumet, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels...) will be worth much more than its weight in gold. Conversely, damaged or deformed jewellery will often be valued solely for its intrinsic value. 

 

Additional tests 

If the punch is not present or illegible, the professional can complete his tests with an acid test or use a spectrometer to check the purity of the gold. These tests ensure the reliability of the estimate. 

 

Documentation and traceability 

Keeping an invoice or a certificate of origin is often used to justify the purchase price and prove the authenticity of the jewel. These documents facilitate resale, especially in the case of a choice of tax regime on capital gains. 

Knowing the punches, understanding the valuation logic and choosing a trusted expert are the keys to selling gold jewelry in full transparency and at the right price. 

For an optimal verification, entrust us your jewel, we are recognized experts able to make a fair estimate and a transaction with confidence.